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St. Martin/St. Maarten Restaurant & Dining
Montmartre 01/27/2003
Reviewers Rating: Excellent
We went to Montmartre at the Atlantis Casino in the lowlands. (www.SXM-Restaurants.com/lowlands/montmartre). Pascal of Auberge Gourmande has taken it over, installed a new chef concentrating on fine French cuisine, and his wife, Karen, is managing. Olivier still waits on tables and now has Christophe to help. (Note that this is NOT the same Pascal and Karin who own Alabama, nor the same Christophe who still works for Pascal at Auberge Gourmande.) Enough history, what about the food? The menu is similar to Auberge, and similarly priced. (Their menu is on the www.Grandcase.com site) We had been over-eating so we even skipped an ap, going straight to the special whole seabass, filleted at the table, and a veal chop in morel sauce. The kitchen makes great presentations, so you should check the website. The seabass was fairly large, perfectly done, and well filleted by Olivier. It came with some veg (broccoli, cauliflower, baby corn, baby carrots), a touch of risotto, some mashed potatoes with olives(?), and a sauce made with herbes de Provence and anise seed. The presentation included a bit of phyllo dough with poppy seeds, a fried plantain, and a bit of pastry lattice-work. The same presentation towered over a large and tasty veal chop, swimming in morel sauce with half a potato hollowed out and containing more mushrooms. We went with a light, rather young Burgundy (Chassagne-Montrachet). It's lightness did not overpower the fish, but its youthful acidity was a nice complement. Of course, it was great with veal in morel sauce. With an added tip, the bill was $100. Very good food and service in a lovely setting, but not much view.

Erich Kranz

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