From "10 FINE LIQUOR JOURNEYS" at Forbes Traveler:
To investigate boutique rum production, Curtis recommends Martinique, home to a half-dozen distilleries. On the sandy, picturesque island, distilleries don't mess with molasses. Instead, Martinique's grassy, nuanced rhum agricole is crafted from locally harvested, fresh-pressed sugarcane juice--often processed within an hour after leaving fields. "This means the distilleries are granted an Appellation d'Origine Controlee by the French government, which means they can claim wine-like terroir," Curtis says.